How Warm Is Warm

There seems to be a general consensus of opinion among the locals that we are having a very unseasonably warm January.

Now, I guess this is all relevant to past experience. For me, Australia Day is a day in January celebrated with a picnic at the beach or back yard barbie, not at an indoor sit-down dinner where you are handed mulled wine on arrival. But that is OK, it was a great night with the presence of Australian wine, vegemite and thong tossing competitions. So January here isn’t as warm as I would like it.

Offerings on Australia Day

Doesn't seem right does it, Anzac biscuits in Mongolian.

But like the locals, we have been thrown into a false sense of security by the unseasonal warmth. Remember it is all relative, days in the minus teens rather than the days past which were minus 20’s-30’s. We had a day out walking where it was actually warm enough to remove gloves and hats and be able to absorb a little more Vitamin D. The joke was on us though, because the next day when I expected a repeat, it was back to 2 pair of gloves and scarf wrapped up around my face.

Emergency agencies are still talking of a dzud, the harsh winter that is measured by the death of livestock, 45,500 reportedly lost so far. Feed has been stockpiled in the countryside and some people are being evacuated from their homes. Traditionally January and February see the bleakest of weather for the nomads out on the steppes. But hopefully, word is, that this year they are much better prepared and hopefully those catastrophic conditions will be averted.

So, what does that mean for us here in the city? Newspaper reports talk about the price of meat, an important staple. There is a stockpile of frozen carcases which where squirreled away when prices were low. Of course, with supply and demand, the selling price will be higher. And there is speculation that they might need to be brought out of storage much earlier than anticipated, and then comes the fear that we will run out.

I have noticed the demise of fresh vegies in the market. Fruit here is imported so isn’t always the freshest anyway, but there is still a reasonable variety if you are prepared to pay the inflated costs. But we are down to the basic vegies, potatoes, carrots, broccoli, cauliflower, beetroot and turnips. We can still get tomatoes, lettuce and a few Asian vegies. In saying that, Vegetarians are still living quite well.

A 'summer' vegetable stall

Lots of traditional dairy foods

I love my trips to the market, most times I choose the local market. You can buy just about everything and see some things you wouldn't want too. The meat hall is especially confronting, where whole animals are calved apart. Goats heads sit on top of freezer cabinets, their teeth look like they are chattering. The ladies running the stalls are usually friendly and will attempt a chat as they try to talk us into buying something we don't want. The sellers overflow into the car parks, every opportunity taken to sell their wares.

Set of buttons for deels

Car boot sale

Glove compartment

In the morning, the buses are still cold. My glasses still fog as soon as I get on and do my pole dancing practice as the driver cuts out into the traffic.  The floor of the bus is still slushy most mornings and one day the inside of the window looked like a freezer compartment needing defrosting. The wind can still manage to sting as it passes any exposed piece of flesh and there is still a shock as you leave the warm haven of indoors.

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There seems to be less ice on the streets. The sunny days bring out the shovels and ice picks with an echoing chink as they hack away. I’m not sure why this little activity has started, maybe they have heard I hate walking on the compacted snow and ice, or it could be that the government are threatening to fine those who don’t clear an area at the front of their premises. Whatever the reason, the piles of ice that has been compacted in stripes because of the layers of clean and dirty, look like giant lumps of liquorice allsorts and remind me of home for some reason (maybe because that is something else that is missing from the markets) But it has meant that I am confident enough to remove the cleats from my boots.

It isn’t warm enough to do without the boots, or the thick cosy coat. I have never seen so many different types of boots. I love walking in through the hospital main entrance and see the milling crowd waiting for their appointments. There are people of all ages and from all over the country. The young ones from the city are usually dressed in more of a Western style, very co-ordinated and chic. But the elderly are more traditional. Deels, the traditional coat that looks like a dressing gown, of every colour, tied with a sash at the waist. Fabrics from heavy cotton , cashmere or silk, lined either with lightweight fabric or, in the colder months, sheepskin. They wrap across the chest and are secured with beautiful ornate buttons along the neckline. Traditionally, the sleeves are extraordinarily long, to cover the hands. They are worn by both men and women and I think are stunning. Men seem to pull the front up over the sash to give the appearance of a paunch across the front.

Belts to go with the deel

Fabric for sale in the market

The deel is matched with equally attractive boots, thick soled, with varying degrees of embellishment in the leather and there is no difference between left and right. The symbols carved into them all have meaning, and being made of leather is said to create a  flow from the body to the earth. The toe curls up, I am told this is because of the Mongolians affinity with the land and the design prevents disrupting the soil too much as they walk. The boots too can be fur lined or made from reindeer, camel or dog skin.

 Hats top the outfit off nicely and these can be made again of fur. The men have a design that folds down to cover the ears while the ladies hats look more like something Anna Karenina would wear, a halo of soft, fine fur. Whatever, they always look stunningly beautiful to me and I keep tossing up whether on not to buy myself a deel to take home. 

A cute beaded version

Of course I could follow local tradition and buy myself one for the upcoming New Year, Tsagan Sar or "White Moon". Everyone has new clothes to parade at the family gatherings, so I wouldn’t be out of place, except that I don’t have family here. Not sure that I would ever wear it again though, except on cold nights as a dressing gown.  But, I am told that we still have lots more winter to come (oh no!!) I have asked when it warms up and I was told after Tsagan Sar, which this year is in February. They promise the spring will come then, but I’m not sure that means warm. Spring brings dust and wind. As though the air quality isn’t bad enough already. I know that I arrived in June and there was still the odd snow storm in the countryside. 

View from our apartment a few weeks ago

So I had better not get my hopes up too soon. As unseasonal as this January is, it is still pleasant. And I think I am getting used to the cold. Mind you with 5 or 6 layers, I should be well protected. And with the cold weather stretching from October till about May, it is just something you have to get used to here in Mongolia. At least I can say  “I’ve done it!”