I’d managed a nap, the flight had been delayed twice so it
was quite late. I had a window seat and as ‘the cabin crew prepared for
landing’ I could spot a few
sparse, dim lights on the ground below. We got lower and closer to Ulaan
Baatar and the next time I looked out the window, there was fairyland.
From the air at night, I would say that the city is about
the size of Adelaide if you knock off the northern and southern suburbs. I
could make out buildings and cars on the roads but the darkness hid lots. There
were towers light up in multi colours and apart from tall buildings, there was
something reaching into the sky that I couldn’t identify.
A bit of a rough landing, but I had an American guy sitting
next to me who is on his third visit with a church mission, so I had my bases
covered. It seemed like and did take forever to get my luggage off the
carousel, but waiting outside were my beautiful husband and my in country
manager.
Loaded into two taxis, we had a convoy through the dark toward
the hotel. As we drove, the roads were more like dirt tracks, a bit bumpy but
adding to the excitement. Especially when the truck traveling to our right
wanted to turn left. James was keen to chat but I was being a bit rude and
watching our new home through the window. In the dark I could see what looked
like a copy of the Arc de Triumph, maybe a gift from the French community.
The thing that I couldn’t work out that was reaching into
the sky, was a smoke stack. There had to be three of four, belching dark smoke
into the air, big clouds spreading out and up but providing the city with
electricity. No wonder the air quality is so bad.
When we got to the hotel, James pointed out a ger just
inside the gate. Not sure what they use it for but thank god it wasn’t our
room. By this stage, I was tired and light headed from my 24hours on the go, so
really I think I would have slept anywhere.
The following week has been busier than I expected. Sunday
started with apartment hunting. The variance in quality directly related to
price, so lucky for us we both have an accommodation allowance. The place we now call home is modern,
brand new and resembles an Ikea display. But we have plenty of room to move and
no residual cigarette smell. We are on the 6th floor (underneath the first ‘T’ in the photo
of building with a brick shed in front of it) which is a bit of an inconvenience when the lift isn’t
working and we stand at the lift doors with bags of shopping. But at least we
are settled..
I have been at work since Monday, doing orientation and
language lessons daily. The Red Cross office is tucked in behind Hospital Number 1, bumpy dirt roads leading to it. At first I wasn’t too hopeful about the language lessons, but now I can greet
people, say thank you, buy water and have a rough idea of numbers. My language
school is in the north of the city within suburbia and there are gers and apartment buildings for neighbors.
To get a taxi here, you just stand on the side of the road and
wave your hand. If someone is going in your direction, they stop. You don’t
give street names but a landmark. Most street names aren’t used, relating back
to the nomadic heritage. Then you would have said, “go to the 4th
big hill and we will be on the eastern side”, a little like a mud map.
The city streets are quite busy, not having been designed
for more than public transport. But when the Russians left, there was an
increase in private wealth, so more people could afford cars. Now you can see
cars ranging from Mercedes, Jaguars and Hummers to Toyotas, Hyundai and Kia’s.
They drive a little like they ride their horses and it can be a game of chicken
crossing the road.
But with that said, I think I like it. The people are so
friendly, nothing is too much trouble and life goes at a relaxed pace.
So from here on it’s new things to see and new things to do.
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