The idea was to escape the early cold of Mongolia to catch the last warmth of Korea, but I think we left it too late. After our flight was delayed by snow in Mongolia, we were welcomed by a cold wind in Seoul. But a few days were enough to recharge our batteries and get a taste of another city, one which is clean, organized and modern.
We weren't quite sure exactly what we wanted to do, but had a few things on a tentative list. Part of our first day was wasted trying to get money from an ATM, that venture eventually taking us to the Seven Luck Casino... no, not to win but to exchange cash. When we looked at the map we were close to a park and tower, a friend had said it was worth a visit, so we inquired from the doorman how to get there. He looked at us and said it would take an hour and a half to walk to the top and suggested we use the cable car, we were happy with that. Maybe he thought we walked slowly.
When we got to the top....what a view. Seoul is bursting in autumn color, carpets of yellow on the ground, mixed with red and orange still hanging on the trees. From the mountain top it all looks like a mosaic. We shared the sunshine with the locals who were out walking their pampered pets, families enjoying the free entertainment and couples pledging their love as the wrote on padlocks that were sold in the gift shops. The locks, in their thousands, adorn rungs of a fence, reminding us of the Ponte Vecchio in Florence, but done with more of an Asian flair. There were couples having photos taken, fingers in a V shape while they stood looking like twins in their matching outfits.
Our walk down from the mountain top proved to be a challenge, steep stone stairs wet from the rain and covered in autumn leaves. Now I wish that we had bought a return ticked for the cable car. By the time we got to the bottom my legs were twitching, we needed a rest. I had walked down, muscles tense with the fear of falling and breaking a limb.
Seoul sits under the sign of the cross. A habit that I picked up in Vietnam was to look up above street level and take in life a few stories up. Doing this in Seoul gives a view that is testament to the strong Christian presence here, steeples topped with a crucifix that would flash with lights at night. If not churches there are multistory buildings signed with different denominations.
But we did discover a few delights in the way of Buddhist temples. A cold wind blew us down the footpath toward what, at first we thought was a park but as we ventured in, found a fantastic floral display in the courtyard of a temple. We wandered the paths, camera snapping away, then I realized James had been swallowed up by the potted chrysanthemums. That was, till I saw the sign that invited foreigners in for information. We were welcomed, sharing a pot of tea while we chatted with a delightful young lady who told us about the temple and asked us about our travels.
Before we hit the footpath again, I went inside the temple where women were all bowing and saying their prayers before three big beautiful Buddhas. There was a graceful rhythm in their prayers.
Seoul is in the midst of a Lantern Festival. A canal through the city also acts as a walking trail and it was here that large floating figures were lit at night. Attracting all the locals, it was a display of Korean historical lifestyle, enthusiasm dampened by a cold wind and drizzle, but still worth the walk. At the end we took refuge with hot chocolate in a cafe.
Next day, back on the tourist trail, we walked up to an area called Bukchon, streets that wind up the hills to a height where you can look back on the ancient tiled roofs. The buildings on the main roads are mostly shops or cafes, but if you leave there and go into the back streets, you get more of a feel for the old Seoul. Behind heavy wooden doors are central courtyards of old houses. The streets are steep and narrow, the houses hidden behind high walls, fine branches of trees reaching over the wall toward the street.
We had fun finding our way around, more than once passing the same spot. There was a lady making a delicious "green tea pancake" and we stopped in front of her twice, it was really yummy.
When it looked like rain was going to spoil our day, we found the bus stop for the city tour bus and did a loop of the city. There was lots to see, although we needed to constantly defog the window. But we were warm and dry and it gave us a chance to plan our next stop. We were taken through the fashion districts. Koreans are very stylish and the young seem to be very fashion conscious, especially the boys. They were carrying designer brand shopping bags as much as the girls.
Our other main form of transport around town had been the subway. It was very efficient and cheap but we did feel out of place. Just about every traveller comes complete with a mobile phone and they sit or stand with earplugs in, either playing games or watching videos. How they don't miss their stop, I don't know. Peak hour travel was most uncomfortable, with people backing into the carriage and pushing so that the doors could shut. Wedged tightly against the next person does stop the risk of falling off balance, but is extremely uncomfortable for a half hour journey. Every so often, there would be another foreigner who would catch my eye and share a smile, understanding that it really translates to "this is impossible" or words to that effect which are too descriptive for print. When we got off the subway on our last ride, I vowed never to do it again.
Our last day was the only one that was planned. On advise from a guy visiting UlaanBaatar from the Australian Embassy in Seoul, we pre-booked a tour to the DMZ. At first I thought he was giving us a tip on a restaurant, but into our conversation realized it stands for De-Militarized Zone. I’m not sure if we had to pre-book because of its popularity or because they needed to check us out. The shuttle bus picked us up early for a rendezvous with an even bigger bus at one of the big hotels. We thought of coffee while we waited but the cost of $11 dried up our thirst.
Once we set off, we were watching the city traffic which slowly thinned as we made our way north. First stop was an observatory where we were shown a film depicting life in North Korea, the comparison shameful. There was a young guide who was a defector, having fled the north for China, before being sold to a Chinese family by the people smuggler. Here she was married and produced a child before leaving it all behind to move on to Cambodia and Vietnam, before returning to the south of her homeland. She told us how, while she was in China, she was treated as a non-citizen, having no status at all. After she had fled to Cambodia, her father had visited relatives in China and suffered a heart attach and died. The North Korean government, believing he too had fled, took the remaining family and she hadn’t been able to trace them since. Of the group of 17 who had fled North Korea with her, 8 survived either death or recapture.
We were ushered outside where we looked across the river to the North. The border was marked with rolled barbed wire, the line studded with watch towers, each side watching the other. To think that that line of wire divided families, the river narrow enough that they can call to each other, but have to live their lives apart. A distance that was nothing in the zoom of the camera. The other side of the river looked barren, tree that could hide people escaping having been removed.
There is a park where families from the South go, to spend the day close to those they have left in the North. There is no real contact between them, ribbons are tied to fences and messages left. There is a bridge which is barricaded at both ends. It is the closest they can get to those they love, not knowing if they are alive or dead.
After lunch we moved on to Camp Bonifos, an American base where the United Nations help to keep the peace. We had to show our passports, leave our bags behind and board an American army bus before crossing the threshold. We had to sign a disclaimer and agree not to carry knives, guns etc.
There was a strict dress code and we were told that we would be informed when we were allowed to take photos. Apparently, if you wear sling back shoes, the North can take photos and use it as propaganda against the South, saying they are too poor to afford a whole shoe.
We had a cute American soldier to escort us, his uniform told us his family name was Martinez. Another movie to fill us in on the history and displays about the conflict, then we went to see the JSA - Joint Security Area. This part was a bit surreal. There were three blue buildings which apparently are shared by both sides. Through the middle of the room passes the border, marked by the microphone cable on the table, and outside a concrete path. Outside the southern end of the building were three soldiers who stand at the ready, facing the north. At a big building on the northern side, was a solider taking photos of us, while we all snapped photos of him, the border between us. Inside the building we were free to hop between the two countries. Doors at either end are locked to keep the other guy out, depending on who is in the room at the time. Forming two straight lines, we were escorted back to the bus, on our way to the gift shop, past the Bridge of No Return.
I realize that this is serious business, but it had the feeling of a movie set. Thank god nobody sent a balloon flying, or we may have found out just how nasty it can get. Part of the history lesson was about the Southern side deciding to trim a tree so that the view of the north wasn’t obstructed. The Northern guys didn’t like this and came to talk about it. What ensued is now referred to as the Axe Murder Incident, a fight having broken out and two Americans being killed with the axe used to trim the tree.
Safely back on our tour bus, we followed the line of barbed wire and were on the road back to Seoul. There was lots to think about as the sun set on the North.
The next day we were making our way to the airport and back to our “home” in Mongolia. We were greeted with snow and slippery footpaths. Unfortunately, there still isn’t the feeling of belonging here, not like arriving at an airport in Australia or Vietnam. For now, this is where we are at, and it is a case of putting up with the cold. The beauty is looking out the window at the stunningly blue sky and being grateful for the liberty we have, being able to travel at will, being warm and safe, having the freedom to phone or write to family and friends as I choose and knowing the next generation will have that same freedom.
We weren't quite sure exactly what we wanted to do, but had a few things on a tentative list. Part of our first day was wasted trying to get money from an ATM, that venture eventually taking us to the Seven Luck Casino... no, not to win but to exchange cash. When we looked at the map we were close to a park and tower, a friend had said it was worth a visit, so we inquired from the doorman how to get there. He looked at us and said it would take an hour and a half to walk to the top and suggested we use the cable car, we were happy with that. Maybe he thought we walked slowly.
When we got to the top....what a view. Seoul is bursting in autumn color, carpets of yellow on the ground, mixed with red and orange still hanging on the trees. From the mountain top it all looks like a mosaic. We shared the sunshine with the locals who were out walking their pampered pets, families enjoying the free entertainment and couples pledging their love as the wrote on padlocks that were sold in the gift shops. The locks, in their thousands, adorn rungs of a fence, reminding us of the Ponte Vecchio in Florence, but done with more of an Asian flair. There were couples having photos taken, fingers in a V shape while they stood looking like twins in their matching outfits.
Our walk down from the mountain top proved to be a challenge, steep stone stairs wet from the rain and covered in autumn leaves. Now I wish that we had bought a return ticked for the cable car. By the time we got to the bottom my legs were twitching, we needed a rest. I had walked down, muscles tense with the fear of falling and breaking a limb.
Seoul sits under the sign of the cross. A habit that I picked up in Vietnam was to look up above street level and take in life a few stories up. Doing this in Seoul gives a view that is testament to the strong Christian presence here, steeples topped with a crucifix that would flash with lights at night. If not churches there are multistory buildings signed with different denominations.
But we did discover a few delights in the way of Buddhist temples. A cold wind blew us down the footpath toward what, at first we thought was a park but as we ventured in, found a fantastic floral display in the courtyard of a temple. We wandered the paths, camera snapping away, then I realized James had been swallowed up by the potted chrysanthemums. That was, till I saw the sign that invited foreigners in for information. We were welcomed, sharing a pot of tea while we chatted with a delightful young lady who told us about the temple and asked us about our travels.
Before we hit the footpath again, I went inside the temple where women were all bowing and saying their prayers before three big beautiful Buddhas. There was a graceful rhythm in their prayers.
Seoul is in the midst of a Lantern Festival. A canal through the city also acts as a walking trail and it was here that large floating figures were lit at night. Attracting all the locals, it was a display of Korean historical lifestyle, enthusiasm dampened by a cold wind and drizzle, but still worth the walk. At the end we took refuge with hot chocolate in a cafe.
Next day, back on the tourist trail, we walked up to an area called Bukchon, streets that wind up the hills to a height where you can look back on the ancient tiled roofs. The buildings on the main roads are mostly shops or cafes, but if you leave there and go into the back streets, you get more of a feel for the old Seoul. Behind heavy wooden doors are central courtyards of old houses. The streets are steep and narrow, the houses hidden behind high walls, fine branches of trees reaching over the wall toward the street.
We had fun finding our way around, more than once passing the same spot. There was a lady making a delicious "green tea pancake" and we stopped in front of her twice, it was really yummy.
When it looked like rain was going to spoil our day, we found the bus stop for the city tour bus and did a loop of the city. There was lots to see, although we needed to constantly defog the window. But we were warm and dry and it gave us a chance to plan our next stop. We were taken through the fashion districts. Koreans are very stylish and the young seem to be very fashion conscious, especially the boys. They were carrying designer brand shopping bags as much as the girls.
 |
| Plastic food on display |
 |
| Tea for sale from a cart in the street |
Our other main form of transport around town had been the subway. It was very efficient and cheap but we did feel out of place. Just about every traveller comes complete with a mobile phone and they sit or stand with earplugs in, either playing games or watching videos. How they don't miss their stop, I don't know. Peak hour travel was most uncomfortable, with people backing into the carriage and pushing so that the doors could shut. Wedged tightly against the next person does stop the risk of falling off balance, but is extremely uncomfortable for a half hour journey. Every so often, there would be another foreigner who would catch my eye and share a smile, understanding that it really translates to "this is impossible" or words to that effect which are too descriptive for print. When we got off the subway on our last ride, I vowed never to do it again.
 |
| Obviously NOT peak hour |
Our last day was the only one that was planned. On advise from a guy visiting UlaanBaatar from the Australian Embassy in Seoul, we pre-booked a tour to the DMZ. At first I thought he was giving us a tip on a restaurant, but into our conversation realized it stands for De-Militarized Zone. I’m not sure if we had to pre-book because of its popularity or because they needed to check us out. The shuttle bus picked us up early for a rendezvous with an even bigger bus at one of the big hotels. We thought of coffee while we waited but the cost of $11 dried up our thirst.
Once we set off, we were watching the city traffic which slowly thinned as we made our way north. First stop was an observatory where we were shown a film depicting life in North Korea, the comparison shameful. There was a young guide who was a defector, having fled the north for China, before being sold to a Chinese family by the people smuggler. Here she was married and produced a child before leaving it all behind to move on to Cambodia and Vietnam, before returning to the south of her homeland. She told us how, while she was in China, she was treated as a non-citizen, having no status at all. After she had fled to Cambodia, her father had visited relatives in China and suffered a heart attach and died. The North Korean government, believing he too had fled, took the remaining family and she hadn’t been able to trace them since. Of the group of 17 who had fled North Korea with her, 8 survived either death or recapture.
We were ushered outside where we looked across the river to the North. The border was marked with rolled barbed wire, the line studded with watch towers, each side watching the other. To think that that line of wire divided families, the river narrow enough that they can call to each other, but have to live their lives apart. A distance that was nothing in the zoom of the camera. The other side of the river looked barren, tree that could hide people escaping having been removed.
There is a park where families from the South go, to spend the day close to those they have left in the North. There is no real contact between them, ribbons are tied to fences and messages left. There is a bridge which is barricaded at both ends. It is the closest they can get to those they love, not knowing if they are alive or dead.
After lunch we moved on to Camp Bonifos, an American base where the United Nations help to keep the peace. We had to show our passports, leave our bags behind and board an American army bus before crossing the threshold. We had to sign a disclaimer and agree not to carry knives, guns etc.
There was a strict dress code and we were told that we would be informed when we were allowed to take photos. Apparently, if you wear sling back shoes, the North can take photos and use it as propaganda against the South, saying they are too poor to afford a whole shoe.
We had a cute American soldier to escort us, his uniform told us his family name was Martinez. Another movie to fill us in on the history and displays about the conflict, then we went to see the JSA - Joint Security Area. This part was a bit surreal. There were three blue buildings which apparently are shared by both sides. Through the middle of the room passes the border, marked by the microphone cable on the table, and outside a concrete path. Outside the southern end of the building were three soldiers who stand at the ready, facing the north. At a big building on the northern side, was a solider taking photos of us, while we all snapped photos of him, the border between us. Inside the building we were free to hop between the two countries. Doors at either end are locked to keep the other guy out, depending on who is in the room at the time. Forming two straight lines, we were escorted back to the bus, on our way to the gift shop, past the Bridge of No Return.
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| The microphone cable on the table marks the divide |
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| Outside the window you can see the concrete strip which is the border |
 |
| The South watching the North. At the top of the steps is the guy who was photographing us, hope he got my good side. |
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| The Bridge of No Return |
I realize that this is serious business, but it had the feeling of a movie set. Thank god nobody sent a balloon flying, or we may have found out just how nasty it can get. Part of the history lesson was about the Southern side deciding to trim a tree so that the view of the north wasn’t obstructed. The Northern guys didn’t like this and came to talk about it. What ensued is now referred to as the Axe Murder Incident, a fight having broken out and two Americans being killed with the axe used to trim the tree.
Safely back on our tour bus, we followed the line of barbed wire and were on the road back to Seoul. There was lots to think about as the sun set on the North.
The next day we were making our way to the airport and back to our “home” in Mongolia. We were greeted with snow and slippery footpaths. Unfortunately, there still isn’t the feeling of belonging here, not like arriving at an airport in Australia or Vietnam. For now, this is where we are at, and it is a case of putting up with the cold. The beauty is looking out the window at the stunningly blue sky and being grateful for the liberty we have, being able to travel at will, being warm and safe, having the freedom to phone or write to family and friends as I choose and knowing the next generation will have that same freedom.
